Country diary: A cousin of the carrot with roastable roots | Michael White

Cranbrook, Kent: There's a bounty of choice at the moment for the hungry forager, but it's the alexanders that I've really got my eye onThe sun is warm on my back. Above the hedge, a flash of yellow draws my gaze to a brimstone butterfly, resplendent in the morning light. For me, this little insect is the herald of spring proper, and I savour the joy of this sighting among the season's first warm embrace.The butterfly and I have come to this picturesque spot for the same reason: food. My tongue being neither long nor thin enough to enjoy the early nectar, I turn my attention to the wild bounty around me - dandelion, common sorrel, lady's smock and stinging nettle. Already the goosegrass is scaling the hawthorn hedge and, down in a ditch, emerald shoots of reedmace are erupting from the blackened ooze. Foraging can be a laborious business at times, but in spring, it's more convenient than a trip to the supermarket - although another glimpse of brimstone reminds me that I am not the only creature feeding here, and I must only take my small share. Continue reading...